The Byron Hinterland is criss-crossed by a dense network of narrow lanes and byways where the visitor will find an enchantment thought to have passed into memory. Towards the south the countryside is characterised by a patchwork of rolling green hills and the orderly rows of macadamia plantations interspersed with tiny hamlets. Early settlers' stone fences are still to be found, and many charming Federation homesteads.  Produce stalls stud the way, providing a profusion of fresh food in a unique shopping experience. Further to the north the rainforest takes over, ceding less and less to the encroachments of civilisation.  Here the environment changes from lush beauty to tropical abundance.

The townships of the hinterland each have their own distinctive character.  Bangalow's main street is an unspoiled collection of Federation buildings, while Mullumbimby, seated at the foot of Mt Chincogan, exudes a more exotic air of alternate lifestyles mingled with old-time residences. 19th century pubs in places like Billinudgel and Eltham are still open for a glass, while hamlets such as Federal and Eureka consist of a tiny school, tinier church, community hall and perhaps a post office/general store, all of weatherboard and iron.  The halls date back to early last century and are still very much a focal point for neighbourhood activities.

This is a place to explore at all times, in all weathers. The changing light cast effects on the landscape which are difficult to forget - like the splendour of sunset bathing the slopes in honeyed gold along the winding hilltop road between Bangalow and Byron Bay;  or the morning mist, a smoking tangle of wraith-like banners, revealing glimpses of the ranges in the distance as it begins to lift.

After rain the light has a tremulous quality: droplets shimmer on leaf and branch, and rivulets, which recently had chattered lightly over smooth-worn pebbles, temporarily become roaring torrents.

Sometimes the lanes take on the quality of a fabulous tale as they twist and tunnel through the overarching trees in the gloom or traverse little wooden bridges over bubbling streams. Emerging into the open again the road climbs high, as on the Coolamon Scenic Route. Then one can see the sea, the hills and dales spreading away below and the Border ranges silhouetted smoky-blue against the azure of the sky.

Wander these byways and become deliciously lost in another world for an hour.  You may return convinced that magic still happens.