If you're into rainforest but don't want to share it with everyone else, pack your picnic basket and head south to the little-known beauties of northern New South Wales.

From the minute you get off the freeway, the stunning scenery of what locals call 'the Big Scrub' sweeps you off your feet as you meander along the cute country roads between Byron Bay and Lismore.

As far as self drives go, this is one of those secret little gems you won't find in any guidebook. Mind you, touring pockets of rainforest saved by the sweat, blood and tears of caring locals isn't everyone's cup of tea. For starters, it gets you thinking.

From Brisbane, it's a full day round trip but chances are, you will want to dig your heels in once you're there. We headed off at the crack of dawn to enjoy an empty freeway and, lured by the sound of crashing waves, succumbed to a hearty, organic breakfast complete with surfing action on the Byron Bay seafront.

Wind down the window (for some fresh air of course) and follow Old Bangalow Road for the narrow, scenic ascent to the top of the range. Hayter's Hill on the right offers a glimpse of the rainforest to come. But stay in your car. There are no walking tracks and the barbed tentacles of the native lawyers vines will leave you with no doubt as to why they're called 'wait-a-whiles'.

With stunning views across the bay, this country has to be heaven on earth. Nature converts, Neil and Erica Holland, have views to die for as well as seven acres of magnificent regenerated rainforest. Not a bad effort for a couple of beef cattle farmers. In fact, their remnant is so precious, it was recently nominated for inclusion in the register of the National Estate. Neil's eyes light up when he tells you about the wildlife. He sees plenty of platypus as well as rare birds galore. Little wonder their cabins have become a runaway ecotourism success.

Wishing we'd arrived yesterday, we decide Byron Bay Farmstay would make the perfect base camp for this drive. Just make sure you book ahead. Check out the couple's remnant as you drive past. It's on the left just past Hayter's Hill.

Next up is Booyong Nature Reserve. Head for the delightful town of Bangalow and follow signs off Bangalow Road until you reach the little blip known as Booyong. You'll find the 20-hectare reserve tucked away to the right, just under the bridge. The noisy squabbles and earthy smell of the local fruit bat colony alert visitors to the start of the walking track and the information board offers a great read.

Although somewhat overgrown, the short walk towards the river is a must for any true blue tree-lover but cover up and take care to avoid the lawyer vines. More than 150 plant species have been recorded in this reserve, along with some rare and fascinating creatures like the Richmond Birdwing Butterfly.

If you're ready for a cuppa, there's a quaint little picnic spot just a stone's throw away, up the road on the left. Here, you can marvel at the Giant Water Gum. They don't come much bigger than this beauty.
 

Alstonville is the next port of call. It's a pretty drive to get there and from the car, you can sneak a peak at the Willowbank remnant on the left. As soon as you arrive, park opposite the rainforest remnant at Lumley Park - this is an essential stop for anyone who has ever given the bush a helping hand. It's also a good toilet stop.

Rainforest regeneration work commenced here in 1934, making it one of the earliest regen sites in Australia. Check out the old croquet clubhouse and enjoy an easy stroll through the rainforest.

Taking Wardell Road, continue south towards the most southern remnant of the Big Scrub - Victoria Park. Keep aside some loose change for the $6 permit as well as the fruit and vege stalls dotted along the roadsides. Limes, pumpkins, avocados and macadamias are just a few of the goodies available in season.

As you get nearer, the park is sign posted. Plenty of picnic tables and a barbecue are provided on the edge of this little wonderland but the real treat is the 300m boardwalk through the rainforest. As well as boasting strangler figs and a monstrous tree propped up by huge buttress roots, this 17.5 hectare reserve is a haven for pademelons, potaroos, mountain possums and bizarre creatures like the land mullet. Bird watchers, too, can have a field day here spotting Wompoo fruit doves, noisy pittas and other rainforest residents.

First dedicated as a public reserve in 1898, this magical spot is now promoted by National Parks as a tribute to the hard work of the Richmond Valley Naturalists Club.
 

Next up is Lismore and a patch of urban rainforest. You can either follow the main drag or, like us, take the backroads through lush macadamia farming country. You can steal away to the serenity of Rotary Park - six hectares of natural dry rainforest just three kilometres from the CBD. It's worth picking up the pamphlet for the rainforest walk, available from the Lismore Visitor Information Centre.

Follow the boardwalk and check out the huge Moreton Bay Fig. Believed to be 300 years old, this tree is of great significance to the local Aboriginal people.

As an alternative, you might prefer to push on to Boat Harbour Nature Reserve, about five kilometres north of Lismore, another relaxing spot with toilets, picnic areas and gentle walking. Once you've checked out the old photos and read about the community protests that led to the remnant's protection, take the short walk to the viewing platform overlooking the river. At dawn or dusk, and providing you don't make a sound, the waters below are said to come alive with platypus. From this pleasant vantage, it's easy to see why Boat Harbour was a popular swimming and fishing spot in days gone by.

Make sure you leave plenty of time to explore Rocky Creek Dam because it's the kind of place that leaves rainforest lovers wanting more. It's a great drive north and the charming rural scenery will have you oohing and ahhing at every turn. The dam lies on the rugged Nightcap Range at the southern extremity of the Mount Warning Caldera. You can tell this is one part of Australia that receives plenty of rain. When full, the dam holds 14,000 megalitres which supplies some 17,000 consumers on the far north coast of New South Wales.

But what strikes you most about this place is the natural beauty. Local water authority, Rous Water, has gone to extraordinary lengths to restore and extend the rainforest surrounding the dam. As well as planting local native species, they've removed weeds like lantana and assisted natural regeneration. Catchment Manager, Anthony Acret, works closely with the community on ecological initiatives, the idea being to promote good water quality and a healthy catchment. On show are some farming innovations, like planted lots of local native cabinet timber.

To soak it all up, there's the option of a couple of short, easy strolls and those with energy to burn can take a longer walk across the spillway to the Big Scrub and back. (Be prepared to get you feet wet). The picnic facilities are hard to beat and there's a great children's playground.

If you're into landcare, you may be back before you know it because Rocky Creek Dam is the site of the Big Scrub Rainforest Day - the largest annual Landcare education event in Australia. On a Sunday in September, Rainforest Rescue and local landcare groups are planning everything from stalls, guided walks and kids activities to bush dancing and yoga in the rainforest. It's all free and you can get hold of a program by visiting the web site at www.rainforestrescue.org.au.
 

For those who can't help but linger, watching the sunset over the mountains at Rocky Creek Dam is a great way to top off a full day of rainforest exploration. It's nice just to sit by the water, spell-bound by the reflections, and do a bit of your own reflecting on the inexplicable beauty of nature.

In this magic part of the world, these stunning pockets of rainforest offer special glimpses of what northern New South Wales was once like. In its heyday, the Big Scrub was the greatest single stand of subtropical rainforest in the world. It covered a whopping 73,000 hectares; an area the size of metropolitan Sydney. Just imagine. An endless sea of rainforest encircling what is now Lismore, Ballina, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby.

Today, less than half a percent remains and local community groups pour their hearts and souls into keep these remnants viable. But it's a labour of love. These surviving forests offer the only refuge for hundreds of species of rainforest plants and animals, so many in fact that collectively, the Big Scrub remnants boast the third highest terrestrial ecosystem biodiversity in Australia. But you'll just have to come and see a little of the Big Scrub for yourself.